The show must go on. The Spring 21 runway season was the most hybrid variety we’ve ever seen, with a mix of digital presentations, lookbooks and films that ultimately proved effective, keeping travel restrictions and social distancing in mind. Visual media not only allowed us to view runway shows remotely, but gave us access to designers’ inspirations along with intriguing conversations and experiences. The post-show dialogue between Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons was a major highlight, while John Galliano and Nick Knight’s film for Maison Margiela added entertaining drama and theatrics that truly enhanced the show experience.
Ulla Johnson
Following the series that started with “‘Product as Protection” and “Product as Mood Boost,” we present “The Changing Tides of Fashion Week” written by Melissa Moylan, VP/Creative Director of Womenswear at FS and Carrera Kurnik, Culture Editor & Consumer Insight Strategist at FS.
Moschino
As for the physical shows, many collections tapped into the yearning so many people felt during lockdown to reconnect with the Earth. Designers also seemed ready to find both healing and inspiration by re-rooting themselves and their art in natural environments. Riccardo Tisci staged Burberry’s livestream event at a forest-like park outside of London. Likewise Erdem Moralioglu filmed his collection in Epping Forest in Essex, England, where models walked amidst towering trees in romantic florals. Indeed many designers have turned to nature to heal in these uncertain times, by providing both a sense of escapism and renewed vitality.
Art Influence
While fashion has always had a love affair with art, Spring 21 collections were especially intertwined with artistic creations. With so many during lockdown taking up crafting as a means of expression in their down time, from watercolor painting, to knitting, to hand embroidery—designers too took hold of the maker’s zeitgeist to create pieces that call attention to the nourishment found in the crafting process. Christopher Kane offered a prime example of this, having produced artwork during lockdown which then inspired one-off garments with painterly brushstrokes. Another interpretation that could be seen in a creative light and making do with what we have at hand, is the fact that during these times, more designers at the luxury level invested in upcycling and patchwork constructions. Preen by Thornton Bregazzi produced a striking patchwork collection which leveraged old prints and fabric scraps. Of course the concept of upcycling is not new, however it’s gaining momentum as a result of quarantine and offers a sustainable solution we hope to see more of.
